Superior service, maximizing your chances of success on a relatively easy 7000er.

Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan at 7134 is considered to be one of the easiest 7000 meter summits of the planet. Not only that, but it's also among the most accessible big mountains in the world with arguably the most pleasant Base Camp. I mean, where else can you pack your stuff in a jeep and drive to a grassy, sunny BC from an international airport in just 10 hours?

If you haven't climbed a 7000er and are looking for your first one, I wouldn't look further. Why go to Nepal for a 7000 meter peak, when those mountains take days to access and have a pricetag of 5-6 times that of Lenin? This deal is a real bargain.

The summit itself may be technically easy, as the most difficult part is scrambling up a 40 degree ice slope, but beware: the weather on this mountain can be real harsh. The basecamp is also quite low, so you'll have to cover about 3500 meters of vertical to the summit.

Nevertheless, with the correct preparation, it's more than doable. You get consulting on  training and on equipment from our behalf from the moment you sign up. We talk things over very thouroughly before taking you to the Pamir mountains - perhaps even give you a huge discount on a preparatory Mt. Blanc climb or the like. There is no reason to procrastinate, if you're serious about getting into big mountain climbing, you have every reason to act now and sign up. 

We can take you virtually any day on this expedition between mid-June and the end of August. If the departing dates below don't fit your schedule, let us know and we'll work out what's convenient for you.

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What you see below is the generally recommended itinerary for climbing Peak Lenin.  How you do your climb may differ from this, but it's a good pointer as to what you'll be doing. 

Day 1    Arrive in Bishkek or even better, Osh (Kyrgyzstan).

Day 2    Drive / fly to Osh (unless you fly there in the first place from Moscow, which is recommended). - Drive Tashkent – Osh (420km, 7-8 hours).

Day 3    Drive from Osh to the «Edelweiss Glade» Base Camp (3600 m). This is a long and dusty drive taking around 8-10 hours. As you enter the mountains, you see nomadic and semi-nomadic people living in yurts, with wild horses wondering about. There aren't a lot of trees around here, the mountains are green with grass or take all sorts of shade from brown to red. Arriving to basecamp involves crossing several creeks with the jeep, which can be a blast.

The basecamp is equipped with two big yurts - the dining tent and several large, 2 person tents with matresses and bedsheets.  Real comfy, as you can stand up inside the tents. 

Day 4    Get acquainted with the area. Prepare yourself for ascent. You may want to wander up to the ridge above the camp to 4000 meters. It's a nice walk, giving you a really good view of all the basecamps in the huge, wide valley. It's a real pleasure to be able to camp on grass!

Day 5    Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m).The ascend to the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m) on a well-trodden track usually takes 1,5 to 2,5 hours – depending on physical conditions of participants. Then you go on following the trail in scree. Total ascent time is about 3-4,5 hours. You can rent porters or horses to help you carry equipment. Camp 1 is generally set up on the side of the glacier. Here, snowstorms are common and it's not as pleasant as the camp at 3600 m. But you still get big dining tents and good food.

Day 6    Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 7    Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 8    Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 9    Descend to the Base camp (3600 m).
Day 10    Rest-day. Hang out at BC. Play volleyball (yes, we have a volleyball court in BC!) with fellow climbers or local nomads.

Day 11    Rest-day.

Day 12    Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m). Along the well-known path get to the Camp and meet with locals, visit their yurt

Day 13    Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m). This part is steep, up to 40 deg. but has fixed ropes installed to help you.

Day 14    Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m). Here you get a chance to scale Razdelnaya, a 6210 meter summit just above the camp. Hey, why not collect a 6000er for just a half an hour of extra effort!

Day 15    Ascend to the top of the Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descend to Camp 3 (6100 m): Early start at 5-6 AM. From “peremychka” keep on the steep 300m-long stretch that then flattens out into so called “Nosh” (“knife”- a steep narrow firn ridge) – a tricky and dangerous section.

Day 16    Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 17    Descend to Base Camp (3600 m).
Day 18    Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 19    Drive from Base Camp “Lenin Peak” to Osh.
Day 20    Drive from Osh to Tashkent or fly from Osh to Bishkek. Or fly home from Osh, if that's the way you came.

Day 21    Departure from Tashkent or Bishkek.

The cost of the Lenin Peak expedition includes:

• all transfers according to the program;
• meeting/seeing off at the airport;
• domestic flights (Bishkek – Osh - Bishkek);
• accommodation at hotels 2* breakfast included in Tashkent, Bishkek and Osh;
• permits and registrations (registration with local authorities, a permit to frontier zone);
• meals on the way from Osh to Lenin Peak Base Camp and to back Osh;
• services at Base Camp (3,600 m) and Camp 1 (4,400 m) of the Lenin Peak:
• accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Lenin Peak Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, bed clothes and “kurpachas” (national-style mattresses) and electric lighting);
• full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
• yurts used as a heated mess-room (done in traditional Kyrgyz style) in BC (3,600 m) and in Camp 1 (4,400 m) good for resting, having meals and amusement (listening to music, viewing photos on computer, guitar playing etc.) at;
• toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC (3,600 m) and at Camp 1 (4,400 m);
• vapour bath (steam room) at BC (3,600m);
• medical services (by professional doctor-reanimatologist) in BC (3,600 m) and Camp 1 (4,400 m);
• electric supply 220 V; 50 HZ;
• high-altitude guide consultancy services;
• registration with rescue team.

The cost does not include:

• visas;
• services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
• rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
• gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners;
• mountain guide

Hiring a mountain guide

You may want to climb with someone who knows the mountain by heart. Our Russian guides' English is comprehensive (and sometimes funny) - enough to get by on the mountain, but you won't be able to discuss Shelley's literature. Needless to say, his presence multiplies your chances of summiting and your safety. If you'd like to hire a guide, the cost of service is:

• EUR 150 per day: in case you want him to show you the way up during the acclimatisation climb and you'll get by by yourelf on your summit bid
• EUR 900 for the whole expedition

Please let us know your preference regarding the guide. The guide must be booked prior to your departure, there's no possibility to book once at BC.

Getting to Kyrgyzstan

We'll be of assistance, if you so wish, in booking your airtickets. The best thing to do is to fly from Moscow straight to Osh with S7 airlines. Of course, it's easy to fly to Moscow from anywhere in the world. Beware however, that S7 uses Moscow's Domodedovo airport, while most internatinal airlines use Sheremetyevo. You'll have to transfer between the two and in doing so, will most likely have to obtain a Russian transit visa.