The Mont Blanc Climb - 4808 m



Summit the Alps with a Mont Blanc Guide


After sunset - at around 10 PM - the Mont Blanc lights up with camps of mountaineers on unbelievably distant snowfields. Mont Blanc is a special place. Climbers from all over the world come here, it's like a big jamboree. It's not just a once in a lifetime climb either - many Europeans make the pilgrimage several times to the highest peak of their beloved Alps.

Thousands of climbers and tourists arrive annually from all over the globe to climb to the hightest point in Western-Europe on one of the dozen routes. Climbing the Mont Blanc always has a special atmosphere around it - you're climbing from the cradle of modern-day alpinism - the Chamonix Valley - to the hightest point of the Alps.

We time our climbs for early September - this way, the crowds are smaller and the weather is still stabil. You're more free on the mountain.



START DATES END DATES
  • 9. July 2011, Saturday
  • 14. September 2011, Wednesday
  • 28. July 2011, Thursday
  • 1. August 2011, Monday
  • 23. August 2011, Tuesday
  • 28. August 2011, Sunday
  • 29. August 2011, Monday
  • 3. September 2011, Saturday

BOOKING DEADLINE
  • 4 weeks before your climb

About these prices...
Join Summit Club for free and enjoy a huge discount from your first trip on! All you have to do is sign up on a short form and you are immediately eligible for Members' price! Click here for details and to enroll. Yes, it is FREE and takes 2 minutes.
About these prices...
 
Join Summit Club for free and enjoy a huge discount from your first trip on! All you have to do is sign up on a short form and you are immediately eligible for Members' price! Click here for details and to enroll. Yes, it is FREE and takes 2 minutes.

Prices

CLIENT-GUIDE RATIO * PRICE
  • 1:1
  • Friendly Price:
    850 GBP
  • For Our Members:
    800 GBP
* You get to choose this after booking, don't worry about it just now.
  • 2:1
  • Friendly Price:
    650 GBP
  • For Our Members:
    608 GBP
* You get to choose this after booking, don't worry about it just now.

PRICE INCLUDES PRICE DOESN'T INCLUDE
  • guiding
  • hire of all equipment: ropes-harness-biners-helmet-ice axe-crampons
  • lodging
  • meals
  • insurance
  • railway

Other info

In the summer, Mont Blanc is probably the most crowded alpine peak on Earth. Don't expect to get a bed in the mountain huts - you'll probably have to sleep on a mattress in the lodge, while locals party 'till 2 A.M. If you're experienced with winter camping, we recommend bringing a tent and pitching it above the huts. You'll definitely get more sleep.


About these grades...

Physical difficulty of trips

  1. Alpine trekking - up to 1200 m of vertical in a day on short trips
  2. Longer trips with high daily loads of 1000 m+ vertical
  3. Climbs involving 1000 m+ of vertical climbing above 4000 meters
  4. Same as Level 3 with the addition of speed as a must
  5. Climbs to summits over 6000 meters in altitude

Technical difficulty grades

  1. Trekking on rocks or snow to 25 degrees steepness, no hands required
  2. Alpine Grade PD - 30-45 degree snow/firnice axe required, may have to use with hands, as you may meet UIAA Grade III rock.
  3. Alpine grade AD: 40-55 degree slopes or UIAA grade-III rock
  4. "My feet are shaking!" Alpine grade D: 50-70 degree snow-walls or UIAA IV-V rock: serious stuff
  5. D graded climbs None of our package trips do this level, but you can request an expert to accompany you for your D or higher graded project.

Here's a table detailing the above used grades on MountainDays.

Culture shock grading

As far as the cultural environment of your country/area of destination, we have set up grades to indicate what degree of culture shock you may expect.

  1. Your usual cultural environment, no big surprises in relation to Anglo/Saxon way of life
  2. A little different than what you are used to at home, but no big suprises
  3. Your trip is a cultural experience in itself, with amusing differences form what you're used to at home.
  4. This is a different world; you have to significantly alter your expectations and behaviour.
  5. Possibility of extreme culture shock; forget any rules you may have brought from home, life runs completely differently than what you can even dream up.
About these grades...
 

Physical difficulty of trips

  1. Alpine trekking - up to 1200 m of vertical in a day on short trips
  2. Longer trips with high daily loads of 1000 m+ vertical
  3. Climbs involving 1000 m+ of vertical climbing above 4000 meters
  4. Same as Level 3 with the addition of speed as a must
  5. Climbs to summits over 6000 meters in altitude

Technical difficulty grades

  1. Trekking on rocks or snow to 25 degrees steepness, no hands required
  2. Alpine Grade PD - 30-45 degree snow/firnice axe required, may have to use with hands, as you may meet UIAA Grade III rock.
  3. Alpine grade AD: 40-55 degree slopes or UIAA grade-III rock
  4. "My feet are shaking!" Alpine grade D: 50-70 degree snow-walls or UIAA IV-V rock: serious stuff
  5. D graded climbs None of our package trips do this level, but you can request an expert to accompany you for your D or higher graded project.

Here's a table detailing the above used grades on MountainDays.

Culture shock grading

As far as the cultural environment of your country/area of destination, we have set up grades to indicate what degree of culture shock you may expect.

  1. Your usual cultural environment, no big surprises in relation to Anglo/Saxon way of life
  2. A little different than what you are used to at home, but no big suprises
  3. Your trip is a cultural experience in itself, with amusing differences form what you're used to at home.
  4. This is a different world; you have to significantly alter your expectations and behaviour.
  5. Possibility of extreme culture shock; forget any rules you may have brought from home, life runs completely differently than what you can even dream up.

Is this climb for you?

  • Physical difficulty:
  • Technical difficulty:
  • Culture shock:

Your guides



Born in: 1968
Occupation:mountain guide, ski instructor, expedition organizer and leader
Spoken languages: English
Favorite climb: Matterhorn Climb
His other climbs: Grossglockner, Grossglockner-Stüdlgrat, Mont Blanc
Expeditions: Aconcagua




Born in: 1967
Occupation:mountain guide, ski instructor, dental technician
Spoken languages: English, some German
Favorite climb: Matterhorn
His other climbs: Grossglockner, Grossglockner-Stüdlgrat, Mont-Blanc, Monte Rosa
Expeditions: Aconcagua Exp.


Born in: 1972
Occupation: mountain guide, climbing instructor
Spoken languages English, German
Favorite climb: Monte Rosa
Other climbs: Grossvenediger, Grossglockner, Grossglockner-Stüdlgrat, Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa

mont-blanc mont-blanc mont-blanc

mont-blanc mont-blanc mont-blanc

mont-blanc mont-blanc mont-blanc

Photos by our guide, Zsolt Erőss.

Day 1: Saint Gervais, Tete Rousse (3167 m)

You meet your guide early in the morning in Saint Gervais and join him on a railway ride to 2500 meters. Above the hundred year old railway station, ibex are peacefuly strolling on the scarce vegetation as aspirants of Mont Blanc start out fresh towards Tete Rousse. The forest disappears quickly and large rocks become dominant. You're on a comfortable, gently sloping hill and you get the day's excitement by crossing a 150 meter wide glaciated slope. Today you do a rise of 700 meters vertical and spend the night at Tete Rouse at just about 3200 m. The duration of the hike is around 3 hours.

Day 2: Gouitier House, 3817 m

Today's target is eraching Goutier house. From a safety aspect, today is the most critical day. You'll be crossing the infamous Grand Couloir, known for its rockfalls. We set out fairly early so that the Sun doesn't melt up the ice around the rocks by the time we get to the couloir. Today's hike is fairly short, but also quite steep. The pace will be again slow in order to give your body a chance to get used to thin air up here.

You'll get to experience a shorter technical section today - climbing over a rocky ridge - where you'll need to use your hands.

Day 3: Mont Blanc Climb: Going for the Summit

It's wakey-wakey at 3:00 AM. You have a tough 1000 m of vertical awaiting you. Stepping outside the hut, it's romantic to see a snake of headlamps heading up the hill ahead of you above the Goutier House. You pick up the rhythm and attack the steep slope with confidence. Now the Sun starts to rise and Vallot Refuge shows itself high above. Good sign, the Vallot just about marks the half-way-point to the summit.

At 4500-4600 meters, the route takes you on a quite thin and exposed ridge. On the Italian side of the ridge, a 1000 meter drop scares the heck out of the less-experienced and signals for caution. You feel you've given all you've got, your lungs are dead, but the rising Sun gives you strenght and confidence to keep going. Mont Blanc summit, now just a stone's throw away is too tempting to give up, so you keep going. Then, there's nowhere to go uphill anymore. That's it, you're standing on the summit of the Alps. The euphoria makes you forget the difficulties and the tremendous effort that brought you 4808 meters high. You're experiencing a small extasy. After a 20-30 minute rest, it's time to descend back to Goutier. You take the same way you came up.

Day 4: Reserve Day for Bad Weather

Here's a day in reserve in case the weather goes bad on us or if your first attempt was unsuccessful. Otherwise, you stroll back to the valley and part from your guide. You still have half a day in Chamonix - you can visit the mountaineering museum or just stroll the streets. You spend the night in a "French, but friendly" guesthouse :).

Day 5: Head Home

...or, since you came this far, why not do another climb? You're perfectly acclimatised and you have a real good shot at any peak. Talk to us, let us help you choose from the nearby French, Italian, Swiss possibilities. Fancy a Matterhorn climb? We'll give you a discount if you book it together with your Mont Blanc climb. Ask us and you shall receive!

In order for you to get the most out of this climb, we made the itinerary as flexible as possible. As the program depends on you and the weather, we can't guarantee that you'll stick to the itinerary you see here. 

Weather

Alpine summer - you need to prepare yourself for rain, snow and cold; 6-8 degrees below freezing on mornings at 3000-3200 m. If you need advice on clothing and equipment, let us know via the form below, your guide will be more than happy to help.

Equipment

Price includes equimpent hire, so you need not worry about technical gear. Of course, you may bring your own gear if you prefer, but regrettably, we can't discount the price of the trip should you bring your own stuff. What you do need to bring is good climbing boots broken in, so they won't hurt your feet. Here is a list that may be helpful to get yourself organized before the trip:

  • underclothing
  • trekking socks
  • rucksack - 45-60 liters
  • waterproof pants - make sure you treat them with water-repellent prior to your trip
  • waterproof jacket/softshell - make sure you treat it with water-repellent prior to your trip
  • climbing pants
  • two pairs of gloves
  • warm hat
  • bandana/cap against the sun
  • sunscreen (min. factor 30) and chopstick for your lips.
  • sunglasses
  • 2 fleece sweaters/vest
  • light and thin sleeping bag for huts
  • climbing boots
  • sandals/running shoes for life in the valley.
  • insurance!
Climgbing equipment is on us, don't worry about that. But do let us know if you plan to bring anything of your own.

 

 


Lodging

In the valley, you'll stay at a comfy guesthouse on a shared double room basis (2 guests per room). If you prefer one-bed accomodation, please let us know, there is a surplus charged. Breakfast is included in the price, but expect something much smaller than the English breakfast you may be used to - on the continent, they go a lot easier on your stomach...

On the mountain, you are shoved into a room with bunk beds shared by many other mountaineers. Don't expect any privacy (or fresh air) here. 

Food & Drink

In guesthouses, we generally get small breakfasts, while on the mountian, you are responsible for your meals. You can buy warm meals at refuge houses as well as hot and alcoholic beverages. During the day, you may prefer high-calorie snacks. Our favorites are granola bars, dried fruits etc. 

Make sure you take in at least 1,5 liters of drinks every 12 hours on the mountain. It's vital that you properly hydrate. Proper hydration aids acclimatisation, concentration at altitude and actually protects against the cold.

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Good stuff, eh? If this trip interests you, fill out the form below to enroll or just ask a question. Feel free to give us a ring, by the way... +36-20-584-1147

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