Climbing Grossglockner (3797 m) - Austria's Highest
"The challange, the sun, the infinite glaciers and the smell of snow all blend together into one very unique experience on this mountain so sacred to Austrians."

3 hours from here, and you're on the summit.
"I'm heading out for a stroll this weekend" - is what you tell everyone at work. Just a few days later, you amuse curious and jealous eyes with incredible shots from Austria's roof and attempt the impossible - which is: putting into words the feeling of the challange, the sun, the infinite glaciers and the smell of snow all blending together into one very unique experience on this mountain so sacred to Austrians.
You do not need mountaineering experience for this peak, but you should have adequate stamina and previous experience on via ferrate or climbing easy rock - just to make sure you don't get nervous with heights... There is hardly a better peak to get a real sense of mountaineering on, than Grossglockner.
START DATES END DATES
- 18. June 2011, Saturday
- 20. June 2011, Monday
- 2. July 2011, Saturday
- 4. July 2011, Monday
- 16. July 2011, Saturday
- 18. July 2011, Monday
- 30. July 2011, Saturday
- 1. August 2011, Monday
- 13. August 2011, Saturday
- 15. August 2011, Monday
- 3. September 2011, Saturday
- 5. September 2011, Monday
- 17. September 2011, Saturday
- 19. September 2011, Monday
BOOKING DEADLINE
Prices
- 2:1
-
Friendly Price:285 GBP
-
For Our Members:255 GBP
- 3:1
-
Friendly Price:285 GBP
-
For Our Members:255 GBP
PRICE INCLUDES PRICE DOESN'T INCLUDE
- guiding
- 2 nights at Stüdlhütte
- all equipment: harness-rope-biners-helmet-ice axe
- all avalanche gear (for winter dates)
- food
- drinks
- insurance
- your trip to/from Lücknerhouse
Other info
A really nice "first alpine peak". It will get crowded on the weekends, so if you can, come on a weekday and ask us for a guide.
Physical difficulty of trips
- Alpine trekking - up to 1200 m of vertical in a day on short trips
- Longer trips with high daily loads of 1000 m+ vertical
- Climbs involving 1000 m+ of vertical climbing above 4000 meters
- Same as Level 3 with the addition of speed as a must
- Climbs to summits over 6000 meters in altitude
Technical difficulty grades
- Trekking on rocks or snow to 25 degrees steepness, no hands required
- Alpine Grade PD - 30-45 degree snow/firnice axe required, may have to use with hands, as you may meet UIAA Grade III rock.
- Alpine grade AD: 40-55 degree slopes or UIAA grade-III rock
- "My feet are shaking!" Alpine grade D: 50-70 degree snow-walls or UIAA IV-V rock: serious stuff
- D graded climbs None of our package trips do this level, but you can request an expert to accompany you for your D or higher graded project.
Here's a table detailing the above used grades on MountainDays.
Culture shock grading
As far as the cultural environment of your country/area of destination, we have set up grades to indicate what degree of culture shock you may expect.
- Your usual cultural environment, no big surprises in relation to Anglo/Saxon way of life
- A little different than what you are used to at home, but no big suprises
- Your trip is a cultural experience in itself, with amusing differences form what you're used to at home.
- This is a different world; you have to significantly alter your expectations and behaviour.
- Possibility of extreme culture shock; forget any rules you may have brought from home, life runs completely differently than what you can even dream up.
Physical difficulty of trips
- Alpine trekking - up to 1200 m of vertical in a day on short trips
- Longer trips with high daily loads of 1000 m+ vertical
- Climbs involving 1000 m+ of vertical climbing above 4000 meters
- Same as Level 3 with the addition of speed as a must
- Climbs to summits over 6000 meters in altitude
Technical difficulty grades
- Trekking on rocks or snow to 25 degrees steepness, no hands required
- Alpine Grade PD - 30-45 degree snow/firnice axe required, may have to use with hands, as you may meet UIAA Grade III rock.
- Alpine grade AD: 40-55 degree slopes or UIAA grade-III rock
- "My feet are shaking!" Alpine grade D: 50-70 degree snow-walls or UIAA IV-V rock: serious stuff
- D graded climbs None of our package trips do this level, but you can request an expert to accompany you for your D or higher graded project.
Here's a table detailing the above used grades on MountainDays.
Culture shock grading
As far as the cultural environment of your country/area of destination, we have set up grades to indicate what degree of culture shock you may expect.
- Your usual cultural environment, no big surprises in relation to Anglo/Saxon way of life
- A little different than what you are used to at home, but no big suprises
- Your trip is a cultural experience in itself, with amusing differences form what you're used to at home.
- This is a different world; you have to significantly alter your expectations and behaviour.
- Possibility of extreme culture shock; forget any rules you may have brought from home, life runs completely differently than what you can even dream up.
Is this climb for you?
- Physical difficulty:

- Technical difficulty:

- Culture shock:

Your guides
Born in: 1968
Occupation:mountain guide, ski instructor, expedition organizer and leader
Spoken languages: English
Favorite climb: Matterhorn Climb
His other climbs: Grossglockner, Grossglockner-Stüdlgrat, Mont Blanc
Expeditions: Aconcagua
Born in: 1967
Occupation:mountain guide, ski instructor, dental technician
Spoken languages: English, some German
Favorite climb: Matterhorn
His other climbs: Grossglockner, Grossglockner-Stüdlgrat, Mont-Blanc, Monte Rosa
Expeditions: Aconcagua Exp.
Born in: 1972
Occupation: mountain guide, climbing instructor
Spoken languages English, German
Favorite climb: Monte Rosa
Other climbs: Grossvenediger, Grossglockner, Grossglockner-Stüdlgrat, Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa
Day 1: Hiking to Stüdlhütte, 2802 m
Meeting is in the parking lot above Lücknerhouse. You are leaving your car at 2200 meters and need to tackle a vertical of 600 meters to get to one of the newest and most modern huts in the Alps. This will take you about 1,5-2-5 hours. Solar power, an indoor climbing wall and exquisite cuisine, baby! It's all Stüdlhütte.
Before going to sleep, you get to know and try on your equipment. Do go to bed early, as the morning sees you leaving quite early.
Day 2: Summiting Grossglockner, 3797 m
You have a thousand meters of vertical to tackle before standing on the peak, so it'll be an early rise around 6 am. Starting out on a winding trail among rocks , you soon come to the edge of the glacier, where you rope up and put crampons on. The first challange comes after stepping off of the glacier. Here, you have a section of via ferrata-like wires aiding the traverse up the rock to Adlershütte, otherwise known as Erzherzog-Johanneshütte at just over 3500 m. This is the highest standing mountain hut in the country, by the way.
Now comes the tougher part. Soon after leaving the hütte, you're looking at a 40 degree snow/firn slope about 50-100 meters in length depending on conditions. After that it's easy rock. After easy rock, it's tougher rock climbing, but won't exceed Grade II which means there's no experience needed, you've done this sort of stuff as a kid. But, the belaying by your guide will come in handy and make you feel safe. You first ascend Kleinglockner and descend a bit lower to the saddle between Kleinglockner and Grossglockner, called Glocknerscharte. It's quite exposed - and crowded. Count on a smaller que building up here.
After crossing Scharte, you're pretty much on Grade II rock all the way to the summit. Take some pics from the "roof of the country" and try to take in the views. The descent is the same way you came up. Celebrate at the hut in the evening!
Day 3: Descending down to the valley
Walk back down to the parking lot - it shouldn't take much longer than an hour. On your way down, your mind involuntarily begins to plan your next ascent on a 4000er. May we suggest Mont Blanc right away? You're definitely fit for it after a successful summiting of Grossglockner.





























