How to rappel with three people fast and sound

A really cool blog: Alpine Awakening by mountain guide Kurt Hicks recently featured a really good article on how to rapp quickly and securely with a party of three. It’s clever and definitely makes rapping faster and more secure when with a group of 3. Just make sure that the anchor points are strong enough to hold 2 climbers while they rapp simultaneously! Check out the post here.

Update: I got the idea for this post via onthesharpend.com

Tags: Climbing, rappeling, Rock Climbing

Can You Be a Climber Without Being a Mountaineer?

A friend and I were talking last night… He’s a great [tag-tec]alpinist[/tag-tec], having bagged several difficult routes in Europe and getting to 6600 meters on the shivering, cruel North Face of [tag-tec]Khan-Tengri[/tag-tec]. He went on a small climbing vacation to Croatia’s [tag-tec]Paklenica[/tag-tec] National Park – a paradise of bolted single- and multi-pitch rock routes.  With his girlfriend, a novice climber, they did a few routes where – after topping out, you could opt to hike back on steep, rocky trails to the foot of the wall instead of rapelling.

Great weather in late autumn and a ton of people [tag-tec]climbing[/tag-tec]. But what became apparent to them is the inadequacy of a bunch of sport climbers to… actually hike. It was a disgrace. More »

Tags: austrian alps, khan tengri, mountain freak, paklenica, sport climbers, Trekking

First Ascent of Fisht Western Face in the Caucasus

You’ve got to have respect for Russain mounaineers. In Europe and North-America, they get too little attention. I just read on the English pages of mountain.ru (great site, by the way, full of priceless information) that a team of five ascended the 560 m wall of Fisht’s Western Face straight on the fall line. The conditions were incredibly crappy for them, but the tough, Prussian-style schooling paid off: they were able to ascend despite the poor conditions – despite hardly even being able to reach BC in the snowy and ici days of the Caucasian February.

Check out the dispatches here and lament over what it must have been like to climb this baby in early March:

Tags: Caucasus, Climbing, mountaineering, Rock Climbing

Climbing Training: 4 Usual and 4 Unconventional Tips to Boost you on Big Mountains

You know you want it. Spring is approaching and you can hardly stop thinking about that rock route or mounain peak that you’ve been wanting to climb so badly. So how’s it gonna be?

What do you do when you’re working the rat race instead of sending a beautiful alpine route or an inviting rock face? The sweetest weeks of the alpine climbing are sneaking up on us and you’re no fitter now than the same time last year! So you’ve got to train, if you’re to hit your aspiration. Today, I’m writing to share with you some conventional and unconventional tips for [TAG-TEC]climbing training[/TAG-TEC].

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Big wall climbing: Trango, Pakistan

Check out this video. 4 surprisingly cool French (no offense there ) mountain guides hit Trango wall on a brand new route, taking like 20 days to summit the 1600 meter route. Shows you just how far a great deal of humor, laughter, friendship and bad ass climbing will take you take all of them very seriously.

The funny thing is that one of the guys acutally “left” the team above 5500 meters – he jumped off with his wingsuit!

The team named their “project” – or the video at least Azazel, which is a name used for Satan in the Bible. Hmm, wonder what’s up with that…
Thanks to gorida.com for pointing this video out in his blog.

Your Alpine Climbing tip #2421: Try a Museum and a Library!

OK, this is supposed to be the largest collection of alpine/mountaineering literature in the world. A huge library with nothing, but climbing books and magazines. We’re in Munich, Germany. Here’s a little recording from inside the museum, which was, well, …later on that…

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A crucial “how-to-climb” Pointer You Probably Haven’t Thought Of

What’s the thing that challenged you the most when you started [TAG-TEC]rock climbing[/TAG-TEC]? I bet it was finger strength – definitely. And possibly your initial fear of heights. Or so you thought.

What you may or may not have realized as you advanced in your skills is that [TAG-SELF]rock climbing[/TAG-SELF] is so much about BALANCE. It’s a balancing act. You were probably told very early on that it’s all about placing your bodyweight on your legs.

CLIMB WITH YOUR LEGS, darn it!

…shouted your coach, if you had one of those better coaches called “close friends”. But what is placing body weight on your legs and turning your feet for proper placement? It’s all balancing, baby! Sure, if you’ve gotten far enough in climbing, you may have realized this.

The thing is, when I started climbing, I never understood guys telling me that it’s all about balance and so, so much less about finger- and arm strength. But if you’re a newbie at this wonderful sport, pay close attention to the effect that every small move has on your balance. That is, the way it becomes more or less difficult to stay on the wall depending on the angle you place your feet or turn your shoulders or move your hips…

If you’re a beginner, balancing is probably more important than you think, and you can never get good enough at it.

If you want to improve in rock climbing, one thing that can help you is fine tuning your balance. Here are some good resources…

• indoorclimbing.com
  
• A book for sale, but you’ll find a cool excercise on this page – Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basic Skills
  
• or check out the book (most of it anyway) for free on Google Books
• some funny looking, but definitely helpful excercieses for balancing

Do this kind of stuff even if you”re into alpine climbing, mountaineering doing relatively easier stuff. It’ll help tremendously, believe me.

Eventually, this is where you want to get…

watch?v=H4ENUH1WlYo

Is this stuff helpful? If you’re a more experienced climber: how did you get good at balancing?

Tags: Climbing, mountaineering, Rock Climbing